A rock in the center of the Mediterranean, Malta has been a strategic military site for centuries. And while her history of survival is legendary, it is the people, the magical and restorative sea, and the rocky shoreline that makes Malta so very special.

I moved there in 1965 as a young child from California. It was a stark contrast to my life in the tony suburb of Hillsborough, just south of San Francisco. I went from a very homogenous world to one full of nuance. Maltese sounds like Lebanese, but most people speak very good English as it was a British colony until 1963. Most interesting is that the Maltese tend to prefer to speak their native tongue, even when surrounded by people who don’t. As a child I used to try to imagine what they were saying to no avail. I did learn very quickly the essential words in every language: how to swear. It’s a very very Catholic island nation and almost all of the swearing expressions have some religious connotation, making them even more hurtful. Some of their words sound like what they mean: mesquine = poor thing; shidwaya = how aggravating, eyema = a verbal very deep sigh.

And then there’s the sea…the crystal blue water of the Mediterranean, at the most perfect temperature, accessible by land in many places, but oh so much better by boat. The nooks and crannies along the rocky shoreline offer up some of the best swimming and diving holes you can ever imagine. And the water truly cures everything from a headache to a bad mood. The Maltese often refer sick people to the sea, knowing that the special properties of that water will somehow cure even the most cynical!

So what do you DO in Malta?  Let me describe a perfect summer day:  You wake up in your accommodation, and there are many to choose from. My personal favorite is the Malta Hilton, which was also one of my first employers. It is located in St. Julians, very close to Paceville where all the nightclubs for young people are, with a beautiful view across the sea. They have great 0utdoor and indoor space with adult and family pools, and access to the sea on a flat rock beach. Their rooms are great, and many have lovely views.

So wake up and be sure to enjoy some Maltese bread with your coffee in the morning. There truly is no better bread in the whole wide world. It is called “hops” and is similar to sourdough, but even better. There are no preservatives so it’s baked fresh each day and has to be eaten on that day. A local dish that every Maltese household will version for themselves is “hops bizejt” which is bread, olive oil and fresh tomatoes at its simplest. Other ingredients can be added like onions, olives, capers and parsley, and remember, tomatoes are all home grown and organic here and have amazing flavor. Olive oil is also made locally. It is a great example of how ingredients make such a big difference to the flavor profile of the dish. Replicating this in the USA is impossible although we try often!

Back to breakfast, the most common breakfast is a traditional English breakfast with eggs, baked beans, bacon and sausage and potatoes and toast. Malta was a British protectorate until 1963 and the British influence remains even after all of these years.

After your breakfast, head to the pier to board your private yacht for the day. Boat charters come in all sizes and prices so choose wisely based on the number in your party and the experience you are seeking. You can rent a small “rib” which can handle 4 people, a small 17-foot boat with an outboard motor. It’s fine for darting in and out of little bays and hidden coves but you don’t want to travel long distances. Ideally drive to St. Paul’s Bay and rent it there so you’re close to the crossing to Camino and Gozo. A larger yacht (3o+ feet) will accommodate up to 8 people and include a galley kitchen. You can opt to bring your own food or have the charter take care of it. Depending on the winds and water, there are two primary directions leaving from Sliema:  go past the Grand Harbour of Valetta and to the opposite side of the island, Marsa Xlokk and Island Bay, or go towards St. Paul’s Bay over to Camino and the famed Blue Lagoon, and then on to Gozo to Mjarr Ixini or other lovely spots on the Gozo coast. There are endless numbers of beautiful bays where you can anchor and swim and the water is truly magical. I highly recommend chartering your yacht during a weekday to avoid the weekend crowds.

Typical lunches onboard include cold cuts of salami and prosciutto and lovely Maltese bread, as well as an assortment of cheese and crackers, and there’s always a “sweet”; some kind of cake is common. It is also common to have “tea” in the late afternoon with another sweet.

It is hard to describe the immense joy of a day on a yacht in Malta. The sea breeze flowing through your hair, the silky clear warm water as you swim, the incredible sights of the coast line as you sail by; and of course sharing that with your friends and family. It’s a lifelong memory that you will cherish. I was fortunate enough to crew on charter boats as a teenager and I will forever be grateful for those great days on the sea with such lovely “foreigners” who chose Malta for their vacation. Just so much fun!

For nightlife, there is Paceville. This is a few blocks of nightclubs and bars and the streets fill every night with partygoers seeking a good time. There are many choices to suit all musical tastes.

To truly understand the Maltese culture, take a walk along the Sliema front. This is miles of sidewalk along the shoreline and every evening you will find families, couples, friends just walking along, greeting each other with a familiar “bye”. When I first came to Malta I found this very odd, that instead of saying “hi” they say “bye”, but you quickly realize the “bye” in Malta means both hello and goodbye. You will witness elderly men sitting in cafes along the shoreline enjoying the view, their conversation about politics, and mostly enjoying watching the passersby. Because you will find them in the same spot at the same time every day, there is a sense of community that is very comforting.